Roasted Pork and Apples

For all my love of sliced ham layered sweet and savory between slices of cheddar and buttered toasts, I’ve never felt the pull to cook my own ham. Which leaves me at Easter with the option of buying one from a commercial ham-baker or negotiating with my family over the doneness level of lamb. That is a dangerous endeavor, with wildly differing, but no less stongly held opinions. People cry, voices are raised, forks are brandished. And in the end, this year, we retreated to our bunkers and decided, to hell with it, we’ll cook a pork loin.

In the doldrums of winter, loins are seared and braised, pulled from the oven burnished with a sticky glaze of carmelized vegetebales. Such a heavy hand is too much for our weather right now. April is alternately thunderstorms and hail or slightly chilled sunshine and calls for a dish that bridges that divide, warming and comforting, but light and bright enough to harken on the coming spring.

Slathered in mustard and chopped herbs, this pork loin is the easiest of easy roasts. Left to chill over night, the pork soaks up the flavor and stays moist enough to cut with a fork. And though apples are not a spring fruit, when mashed into pan sauces with white wine and lemon, they take on a sweet brightness that enlivens the dish. It’s a fine way to bid adieu to winter.

Along for the ride on this one was the “new” Jimi Hendrix cd my mom bought. Not necessarily the most Easter-y of music, but we’re not terribly religious people either.

Roast Pork with Apples - serves 6

1 3-pound boneless pork tenderloin, tied
1/2 cup dijon mustard
1/4 cup olive oil
6 sprigs thyme, chopped
1 tablespoon parsley, chopped
3 sprigs sage, chopped
3 sprigs rosemary, chopped
Kosher salt
Freshly cracked black pepper
3 golden delicious apples, peeled and chopped into large pieces
1/2 cup chicken stock
1 cup white wine
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons Calvados Brandy (optional)
zest and juice of one lemon

1) Tie the pork at one inch intervals. Whisk together the mustard, olive oil, chopped herbs, and salt and pepper in the bottom of a shallow dish large enough to hold the pork loin. Place the pork loin, coating liberally with the marinade. Cover and chill at least 3 hours, but preferably overnight.

2) At least an hour before cooking, let the pork loin come to room temperature. Recoat the pork loin with the marinade.

3) Preheat the oven to 375. Place the pork into a large roasting pan (make sure you have a couple inches on each side of the pork) and roast for an hour, or until the center reaches 130 degrees.

4) After 30 minutes in the oven, add the chopped apples, chicken stock and 1/2 cup white wine. Give the apples a good stir, and continue cooking.

5) About 5 minutes before the pork is done, and when the apples have softened, but still have their shape, take the apples out and turn the oven to broil. Broil the pork until the top is crusty and dark, then remove to a cutting board and tent for 10 minutes.

6) Put the roasting pan on the stovetop over high heat. Add the remaining white wine and brandy, stirring to pick up the brown bit. Add half of the roasted apples and any reserved liquid to the pan, mashing with a potato masher or fork. Add lemon zest and lemon juice. Slowly whisk in butter pieces, adding more butter if the sauce is too tart. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Strain through a fine meshed sieve into a serving bowl.

7) Slice the pork into 1/2 inch pieces and serve on a large platter with the remaining apples and sauce on the side.